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TYPES
OF DUCK USED IN COOKING:
PEKIN,
MUSCOVY, MOULARD AND MALLARD
PEKIN DUCK
In
1873 nine ducks were exported from China to Long Island, New York
in the United States. The animals and their meat are sometimes
referred to as "Long Island duckling". Pekin duck, or Long
Island duck (Anas platyrhynchos domestica, or Anas peking, is
a breed of domesticated duck used primarily for egg and meat production.
It was bred from the Mallard in China. Fully mature adult Pekin
ducks weigh between 8 and 11 pounds (3.6 and 5 kilograms) in captivity.
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Pekin
duck breast with a rhubarb sauce (left). Pekin duck is the
most popular duck used for cooking in the United States.
The
Pekin duck has meat that is tender and mild in flavor. It
is can be eaten either on the rare side or cooked through
as in many Asian preparations.
The
tender breast are best sautéed, but its muscular legs take
to braising or confit style.
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The Pekin
duck is the most popular commercial duck breed in the United States,
although some farming has since relocated to Indiana from Suffolk
County, New York. Around 95% of duck meat consumed in the United
States is Pekin duck.
MUSCOVY
DUCK
The Muscovy
Duck (Cairina moschata) is a large duck native to Mexico, Central,
and South America. Small wild and feral breeding populations have
established themselves in the United States, particularly in the
lower Rio Grande Valley of Texas, as well as in many other parts
of North America, including southern Canada. Feral Muscovy Ducks
have also been reported in parts of Europe. They are a large duck,
with the males measuring about 76 cm in length, and weighing up
to 15 pounds. Females are considerably smaller, and only grow
to 7 pounds, roughly half the males' size.
Muscovy duck
breeds are popular because they have stronger-tasting meat – sometimes
compared to roasted beef – than the usual domestic ducks which
are descendants of the Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos). The meat
is lean when compared to the fatty meat of mallard-derived ducks,
its leanness and tenderness being often compared to veal.
In discussing
the halachic issues surrounding the species' kosher status, it
was noted that the Muscovy duck was "highly controversial, due
to its ban in America by the acerbic Rabbi Bernard Illowy in the
mid 1800’s. As such, it is still not recognized as kosher in the
[United] States today, but in Israel, no such ban ever existed."
MOULARD
OR MULARD DUCK
The Mulard
(or Moulard) duck is a hybrid variety of domestic duck produced
by crossing a female Pekin with a male Muscovy Duck.
Since the domestic Pekin is descended from the Mallard Duck (Anas
platyrhynchos) and the Muscovy (Cairina moschata) is a separate
species, all Mulards are sterile F1 hybrids. Most are bred through
artificial insemination, and are sometimes also called "mule ducks."
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Duck
confit made using the moulard duck leg from Hudson Valley
New York. The Moulard duck leg is the preferred choice of
duck.
While
Moulard duck leg meat starts off tough, after slow cooking
confit for several hours the meat melts off the bone.
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The Moulard
duck is mostly produced commercially on farms for meat and for
foie gras production. White Muscovies and the Pekin are the
two most common pure breeds of duck commercially, and hybrids
of the two are hardier and calmer, in addition to exhibiting natural
hybrid vigor. The
Lola duck is "a heritage breed" of Moulard duck that
is specific to certain farms. It is a cross between a Pekin and
male heirloom mallard. Lola is smaller,leaner and a gamier bird
than the Moulard duck.
The Moulard
duck has meaty breasts, which are sold separately and labeled
"magret." They are best sautéed or grilled medium-rare like a
steak.
MALLARD
DUCK
The Mallard
, or Wild Duck, is a dabbling duck which breeds throughout the
temperate and subtropical Americas, Europe, Asia, and North Africa,
and has been introduced to New Zealand and Australia.
Wild duck
is best eaten rare. The juices run red, not clear, more like a
beautiful juicy red steak.
The taste
of wild duck is highly dependent on where that duck has been feeding.
According to the Joy of Cooking, shallow water ducks feeding on
local grains, like mallards, widgeons, and teal, can be very succulent,
while diving ducks feed on fish, affecting their flavor. Wild
ducks are much more flavorful than domesticated ducks, as their
muscles are getting a constant work-out, which is also why their
flesh is so red. The taste is closer to steak than to chicken.
References
and Selected Readings:
How
to Choose the Right Duck for Cooking
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