Overview
Sous vide
is French for "under vacuum". In the US the term "Cryovacked"
is often used instead of Sous vide. It is a technique where the
ingredients are put in a vacuum-sealed plastic pouch, usually
for a long time and cooked at a low temperature (usually around
60°C = 140°F). In some cases food is cooked for 24 hours or more.
Although many excellent dishes can be prepared in under 30 minutes.
The technique is currently being used by many of our top chefs
including: Thomas Keller, Paul Bocuse, Joël Robuchon, Charlie
Trotter, Wylie Dufresne Heston Blumenthal. Recently we have begun
to see Sous vide cooking being
adapted into the home kitchen (See below).
History
The method
was developed by Georges Pralus in the mid-1970s for the Restaurant
Troisgros (of Pierre and Michel Troigros) in Roanne, France who
was looking for a new way to to cook foie gras, which shed 30
to 50 percent of its original weight in cooking. Pralus found
that when cooking foie gras using Sous Vide techniques its original
appearance did not lose excess amounts of fat and had better texture.
Bruno Goussault
was working along the same lines in the 1970's, but instead at
an industrial level. In 1974, Goussault worked on a study that
was presented on the sous vide cooking of beef shoulder at an
international frozen-foods conference in Strasbourg, France. It
was found that cooking the beef sous vide extended its shelf life
to 60 days.
Method Overview
Sous vide
cooking time is affected by three factors: (1) the core temperature
you wish to cook the dish to; (2) the heat transfer characteristics
of the food; and (3) how much food will be cooked at one time.
For example, meats – which do not conduct heat particularly well
– will require longer cooking times than foods such as vegetables
which are much less dense and offer greater relative surface areas.
Also, the greater the cooking liquid to food ratio, the faster
each portion of food will reach the proper core temperature. PolyScience
a leader in sous vide cooking recommends that when cooking sous
vide, that the cooking pouches be completely covered with liquid
and that there is sufficient room for the pouches and cooking
liquid to circulate freely.
For
the Professional Cook Most
professional cooking relies on a cook's ability to judge doneness based on sight
and feel. With sous vide, it is all about precise times and temperatures. In sous
vide cooking once the proper temperature and time is determined restaurants are
able to reproduce taste and texture fairly easy. The
‘art’ of sous vide cooking is in determining the perfect ‘core’ temperature you
need to reach to achieve the desired taste and texture. Professional sous vide
chefs use a thin hypodermic needle thermometer, inserted through a piece of spongy
self-sealing tape, to test the internal temperature of the vacuum-packed foods
without breaking the package's vacuum seal. Meats are usually seared before serving,
which not only crisps the food, but kills any surface bacteria. Maintaining
a slow cooker or pan of simmering water at just the right temperature is a very
time-consuming, hands-on process. Also, because they don’t circulate the cooking
liquid, these devices can develop hot and cool zones that adversely affect the
cooking process.Restaurants require professional equipment for sous vide cooking
that will maintain temperature without constant adjustments.
Cuisinetechnology by Polyscience is a leader in the field with a long list
of top chefs as clients (Thomas Keller, Paul Bocuse, Joël Robuchon, Charlie Trotter,
Wylie Dufresne Heston Blumenthal). Adapting
Sous Vide to the Home Kitchen
 |
|
 |
| Chicken
being vacuum packed | | Chicken
being cooked at 147F | Presently
there are several vacuum packers available on the market that are being used by
home chefs. We have found sufficient success with the Food Saver Line (see photo
above). Maintaining
a low and constant temperature however can be a problem for the home cook. The
most available approach would simply be using a stove top water immersed system
monitored with a thermometer. Either adjust the flame or adding hot or cold water
has been shown by many to work well. However this method requires constant watching.
In cooking
trials done for this site an old deep fryer was found to hold
the temperature to within 1.5 degrees over a period of 30 minutes.
Hot or cold zones were not detected surrounding the plastic bag.
This suggests that the heating element located only at the bottom
of the deep fryer provided sufficient convection currents. It
was also found that using large amounts of water ensured minimal
temperature fluctuations. Adjustments were easily made by adding
small amounts of ice or hot water.
Another problem
the home chef will face is not having a means to measure internal
temperatures of the food medium. Without rather expensive equipment,
internal temperatures cannot accurateley be determined until after
the cooking process is complete. However, through trial and error
methods we can determine approximate time internal temperature
is reached and then continue the cooking process for longer times
as determined by the Safety Tables shown below (See Safety Issues
below).
A good rule
of thumb would be to start with an extended cooking time and work
back.
Advantages
of Sous Vide Cooking Method --Food
can be seasoned and packed with small amounts of oil, butter or stock that would
normally be required in large amounts when poaching foods. --Low
and monitored temperatures can prevent meats from being overcooked
--There is little shrinkage and loss of juices --There
is enhanced nutritional quality; the sous vide technique preserves many nutritional
qualities that other cooking methods tend to destroy yet provides Safety
Issues The
rule of thumb among food service professionals is that foods should stay in the
so-called "danger zone" (temperature range of 40F to 140F degrees) as briefly
as possible since bacteria thrive in that range. However much of sous vide cooking
occurs at lower temperatures and even cooking at 140F can be dangerous if one
is not familiar with the various D-values for microbes. D-value
refers to decimal reduction time - The time required at a certain temperature
to kill 90% (or 1 log10) of the organisms being studied. Thermal inactivation
of Salmonella requires a value of 7-D ( 7 log10) and a 12-D reduction is required
of C. botulinum in canning.
D-values can
be depend on pH and salt concentrations as well as fat content
in food.
The
two tables below give the 7-log10 lethality for Salmonella at two different fat
contents. The tables clearly show the extended times required for cooking at low
temperatures. Keep in mind these are cooking times required once the thickest
portion reaches it's target. Times
for given temperature, fat level, and species needed to obtain 7-log10 lethality
of Salmonella* ------------------------------------ fat%=5 ----------------------
| temp F | chicken | turkey |
| 136 | 68.4 min | 65.3 min | | 140 | 27.5
min | 29 min | | 145 | 9.2 min | 10.8 min |
| 150 | 2.8
min | 3.7
min | | 155 | 47.7
sec | 1.2 min |
| 160 | 14.8 sec | 26.1
sec | Times
for given temperature, fat level, and species needed to obtain 7-log10 lethality
of Salmonella* --------------------------------
fat%=12 ------------------------------------
| temp F | chicken | turkey |
| 136 | 81.4 min | 70.8 min | | 140 | 35
min | 33.7 min | | 145 | 13 min. | 13.8 min |
| 150 | 4.2
min | 4.9
min | | 155 | 54.4
sec | 1.3 min |
| 160 | 16.9
sec | 26.9
sec | For
complete list of Tables, see: TIME-TEMPERATURE
TABLES FOR COOKING READY-TO-EAT POULTRY PRODUCTS Salmonella
spp. are not particularly heat resistant and most serotypes are killed by
normal cooking conditions (see above tables). However, a few highly heat resistant
serotypes have been reported. Because
the majority of bacteria that cause food-borne illness are found on the exterior
of food, searing meat surfaces before serving will reduce the number of microbes
on the surface. In
order to inactivate the spores of type E and nonproteolytic strains of Clostridium
botulinum food must be heated to 180°F (82.2°C) for 15 minutes. The toxin is destroyed
by heating food to temperatures above 180°F (82.2°C) for a few minutes (See: Food
Pathogen Control Data Summary) Chilled
vacuum-packaged food must be kept very cold - below 4°C - and cooking should be
at temperatures above 60°C, to keep food out of the "danger zone." Once cooked,
foods need to be served immediately or chilled in quickly in an ice water bath.
If vacuumed foods (which contain an anaerobic environment) contain C.botulism
spores they could germinate and produce dangerous toxins. See:
The The
Problems with Cooling Food.
References:
A
Short Guide to Sous-Vide
Eggs
Sous-Vide
Sous
Vide Revisited
Time-temperature
Tables for Cooking Ready to Eat Poultry
Principles
of Canning, Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
Cooking
in a vacuum -- A far cry from boil-in-a-bag, French sous vide
technique mesmerizes Bay Area chefs; SFGate, May 2, 2007
Thermal
Death Time -- Wikipedia
Salmonella
spp. -- Food Safety Authority of Ireland
The
Problem with Cooling foods
Food
Pathogen Control Data Summary
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